A TOUR AROUND THE BEARA PENINSULA

    The Romantic and Beautiful Peninsula of Beara extending its rocky shores into the depths of the Atlantic, is the most South Westerly corner of Cork, and is probably the most romantic and diversified region in all Ireland, and certainly one of the most beautiful.

    Here, the Antiquarian will find plentiful and intriguing material for study the Geologist and Botanist a fruitful for exploration and discovery the Photographer and the Artist a wealth of subjects and colour. The Walker, beautiful quiet countryside with magnificent towering mountains, fronting Atlantic seas, rocky shores, interspersed with sandy beaches, quiet coves and sunny bays.

    But natural scenery alone does not sum up the holiday attractions. The Angler can enjoy some of the finest deep-sea fishing in Europe whilst innumerable rivers and mountain lakes, well stocked with trout, await the Angler’s pleasure, and miles of moor and mountain over which to shoot. The Motoring Tourist and Sightseer in search of breath-taking views will find Beara an unforgettable experience, with good un-crowded roads, presenting a succession of seascape views which, for sheer grandeur and beauty, are unparalleled elsewhere. Beara is indeed a region of unexpected pleasures, which beckons the discerning tourist, who wants to get off the “beaten track” and mingle with friendly, courteous and helpful people.

    Everywhere the visitor is received in the spirit of the ancient Gaelic greeting. Céad Mile Fáilte “A Hundred Thousand Welcomes.” As a first days outing from Castletownbere, the visitor will do well to confine his explorations to the district west of the town, as far as Dursey Sound. Barely a mile to the west is the first object to attract attention, and one of special interest to the historically minded, the storied Castle of Dunboy, the last stronghold held by the Irish Chieftains in the Elizabethan wars of conquest. Embosomed in its beautiful environment of woodland, the now ruined fortress recalls many a grim battle waged for its possession.

    Leaving Allihies, the tourist at once enters the rock-ribbed headland of Reentrisk - a vantage point for a magnificent panorama embracing sea, coast and mountain scarcely less thrilling than seen from Gour Gap in the early stage of the tour. Reentrisk itself rises high above its environment, its ruggedness and isolation relieved only by the well-kept cottages of the kindly inhabitants of this district who depend largely on the sea for their livelihood. Looking around, the estuary of the Kenmare River is seen extending from Dursey Island in the south to Scariff Island in the north, a striking feature of the scene. So also northwards is the Skellig Rock, cone- like formation, rising 750 feet above the troubled waters. The Kerry headlands, like mammoth spearheads, reach out towards it; and to the south-west the Bull Rock. Its lighthouse visible, and the Cow and Calf Rocks lift themselves above the waves, survivals of an age-long combat with the angry ocean. As if to add colour to the scene the Atlantic swell breaks in snow-like foam all along the shore from Ballydonegan in the south to Cod Head in the north - one long fringe of crashing surge. Reentrisk is indeed a district likely to delay the visitor, for surely no finer prospect is afforded anywhere in Ireland.

    Proceeding direct from Castletownbere (or continuing the previous tour from Reentrisk) the road now winds along Coulagh Bay to Eyeries, a charming little village looking out on the broad Atlantic which is here punctuated by the Skellig Rocks, Scariff Island and several rocky islets which stand away from the headlands of Kerry. If the visitor is so inclined he may halt here for a bathe, which can be enjoyed in the splendid sandy beach just in front of the village. Eyeries was once the patrimony of Murty Oge O’Sullivan, a scion of the O’Sullivan sept. He is immortalised in Froude’s “Two Chiefs of Dunboy.” John Puxley, the other “chief’, fought a duel with Murty Oge, and was mortally wounded. Having served with distinction in the Austrian and French armies, O’Sullivan died defending his ancestral home in Eyeries against a besieging party of English soldiers. Keeping on for Ardgroom the road soon enters the Pass of Boffickle, a picturesque defile, remarkable for its many bends so that slow driving is advisable.

     On reaching the crest of the Pass, Ballycrovane Bay comes into view on the left - a beautiful little inlet of the Kenmare River which served in the middle ages as a busy port for the light sailing ships of that period, and in later times as a safe harbour for smugglers to ply their “trade.” Here-abouts, between the road and the Bay, the tourist will notice a large pillar-stone. This is one of the most famous monuments in Western Europe. It bears the Ogham inscription: “Magi Decceddas Avi Turanias” “The grave of the son of Decceddas and grandson of Torani.” And of this stone Professor McAllister writes: “Certainly no other stone can compare with it - all the slabs and brasses and statues and tombstones of the middle and modem ages there is not one worthy to he mentioned with this lonely hill-top pillar stone, 17 feet high, watching in solemn dignity over the glorious Ballycrovane Bay.” - North of Ballycrovane Bay rises the peninsula of Kilcatherine, notable as the residence of the Cailleach Bheara, by all accounts one of the most celebrated ladies of Irish antiquity, and immortalised in Pearse’s poem: - “Mise Eire, Sine me na an Cailleac Beara.” Here, beside a by-road, is a remarkable figure in stone of the upper half of the body of a woman, the legendary Cailleach Bheara (Beara’s Hag)

    Rather than go straight on to Ardgroom it is well worth while diverging by a road to the left from the pass to explore the Kilcatherine Peninsula, The road is narrow but passable, and from the highest elevations affords one of the grandest panoramas of sea and mountain to be seen anywhere. Away in the further north-east are the Two Paps Mountain between Killarney and Millstreet; to the north broad-backed Mangerton and the great peaks of Carrantuohill: while right across the Kenmare River one sees the rugged hills over Waterville, Cahersiveen, and Parknasilla in Kerry. Keeping on, Derryvegal Lake is seen on the left, and from this point it is about three miles to Ardgroom. The village is delightfully situated beside its lovely little harbour. One mile to the south, embosomed in a deep glen in which the sun is not seen from October to March, lies Glenbeg Lake, teeming with trout and frequented by anglers. Beyond the village of Ardgroom is a miniature Stonehenge, a circle of long stone slabs set on end, while on a high knoll to the left is a large rath. These pre-Christian relics are evidence of a civilisation more ancient than that of Rome. From Ardgroom the road runs on by the Kenmare River, past the woods of Direen to Lauragh - (the junction for the far-famed Healy Pass) - and so to Kenmare.

     The Healy Pass: - To complete the circular tour of the Beara Peninsula the tourist after reaching Lauragh, turns south-eastwards to traverse the Healy Pass; a mountain road leading up to it with unsurpassed views, picturesque Glenmore Lake, gleamy and gloomy in turn, as the shadows cross the overhanging File Cannon (“The Fairfaced Cliff’), leading to a deep-lying valley, bordered by the Kenmare River and beyond to McGillycuddy’s Reeks of Kerry bounding the truly magnificent scene. Near the Pass on the Cork side, the tourist meets the wayside Calvary and beyond this the road winds its way like a corkscrew downward to Adrigole.

     Bere Island: - From the pier at Castletownbere a ten-minute boat trip will take you to Bere Island, which abounds with its own special attractions. The panoramic views from the many vantage points along its accessible hills, the boating, fishing, swimming, the utmost peace and quiet will delight and satisfy the most discerning visitor. In short it has the lure that only Islands hold for those in search of holiday with a difference.

This article is an extract from a Berehaven Development Association Brochure printed in the mid 1930's.

Very little has changed on the Peninsula though the years, due entirely to the diligence and respect the peoples of Beara hold for this unspoilt gem, as today's visitors to Beara will discover to their delight.