Castletownbere: its growth and development

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Background

    During his travels in Beara in 1750, Charles Smith wrote ‘Castletown, alias Castledermot, is a small village of little note, opposite to the island of Berehaven. In 1758, Pococke, who travelled by sea from Bantry to Berehaven Harbour wrote: ‘There is no village at this harbour, only small houses.’

   

    However, by 1800 two clusters of fishermen’s cottages, one beside the river that flows down to the sea behind Castledermot and the second around the inlet near the entrance to Cametringane, existed at the east end and west end respectively of the present town of Castletownbere. At that time the Catholic Chapel and a little village consisting of a cluster of small houses were located about a mile to the east of the town in an area to the south of Coffey’s Height in Derrymihan West known as Barr a’ Bhaile.

 

Berehaven Sound

 

Growth of the town

    The setting up of a British naval base on Bere Island after the Napoleonic Wars and the development of copper mining in Allihies from 1812 onwards led to the growth of the town. During this period houses were built along the north side of the road that linked the two clusters of fishermen’s cottages on the north side of what is now known as Castletownbere Harbour. In 1822 a new Catholic Church was built where the present Church of the Sacred Heart stands and the chapel in Barr a’ Bhaile in Derrymihan fell into ruin. St. Peter’s Church of Ireland was built in 1841.

 

Allihies Copper Mines 1800's

 

    At that time the ruins of Castledermot castle still stood and the expanding town was named Castletown Bearhaven, nowadays better known as Castletownbere. The economic activities associated with the copper mines in Allihies and the development of fishing continued to give an added impetus to the growth of the town.

 

Castletown Berehaven late 1800's

 

    By 1835 the population of Castletownbere had grown to 1,468. At this stage most of the newly built houses were on the north side of the Main Street and very few buildings were on the south or seaward side, especially towards the east end of the town. Fishing was well established in the harbour with 4 decked boats of 20 tons, 12 hookers of 12 tons and 51 yawls of 4 tons which gave employment to about 400 fishermen.

 

 

Hotel

    By 1842 the Beara Bay Hotel was built. The terrace of houses attached to the west side of the hotel was named Victoria Terrace, probably in honour of Queen Victoria, who was crowned queen in 1837.

 

The New Hotel

 

    On May 17, 1848 The Cork Examiner carried this advertisement: -

‘Hotel, Castletownbere. Mrs. Harrington respectfully invites the particular attention of her friends and the public to her establishment, which has lately been fitted up in a superior style for the accommodation of those who may be pleased to favour her with their patronage. She wishes to draw special notice to her sitting rooms, as well as to her large and thoroughly aired bedrooms; the accommodation in this respect is not surpassed if equalled in any Hotel in the South of Ireland. 

 

  Pinnace

 

    A well-appointed pinnace (a sailing boat with two schooner rigged sails), a side-car and covered car are always in readiness, with ponies if required, for those who wish to witness the grand and sublime scenery of the South West.

Mrs. Harrington begs leave to add that she has three cottages to let for those wishing to avail of them during the bathing season.’

 

    It appears that the Hotel was making renewed efforts to win back business at a time when the gloom of the Great Famine hung over the country.

 

 

Coastguard Station

    During the second half of the 1800s, the Hotel including the terrace of houses on its west side was sold for use as a Coastguard Station. By 1910 a new Coastguard Station was built where St. Joseph’s Hospital is now.

 

  Coastguard Station

 

    The old Coastguard Station in the town was sold and after refurbishment it was reopened as The Berehaven Hotel. The large British military and naval base on Bere Island during the early decades of the 1900s and especially during the First World War 1914-18 provided a period of economic prosperity in Castletownbere.

 

  Berehaven Hotel

   

    In 1938 the British Military Base on Bere Island was handed back to the Irish Government. During the Second World War 1939-45 and the decades that followed there was little economic activity in Castletownbere and the surrounding areas of Beara and as a result there was large-scale emigration to England.

 

Handover of Berehaven 1938  Irish Army 1940

 

Fishing port

    In the 1960s Castletownbere Harbour was developed as the major fishing port for Southwest Ireland. The fishing fleet was modernised and expanded, leading to increasing catches and better conditions for the fishermen. Fish processing factories provided much-needed employment on shore. Soon Castletownbere became known for the diverse range and top class quality of its fish, not alone in Ireland but throughout Europe.

 

   The old Pier 1930's  New Pier 1968

 

 

The C.C.D.A express their thanks to Connie Murphy (Chairman. Beara Historical Society) for this article.